Al Fresco…or is it?

First of all, the expression ‘Al Fresco’ although they are Italian words, are not used in the same way in Italy. ‘Al fresco’ to the the Italians means ‘in the cooler’ an expression which is the same as the slang, meaning ‘in prison’.  If they talk about eating outside they say, ‘all’aperto’ (in the open) or maybe ‘a fuori’ (outside). Strange that an Italian phrase used all over the world means something different in its country of origin. I blame the Americans…I’m joking!

We love eating outside. We can do it here in Italy for probably two thirds of the year. I know the weather has been good in the UK for a while and I’m pleased that all my friends and relations living there have been able to enjoy eating in the sunshine or under the stars, having picnics and barbecues.

Friends at Re Squarchio
Friends at Re Squarchio
Andrea Preparing the Tables
Andrea Preparing the Tables

Andrea from the Ristorante Re Squarchio put his tables outside about a month ago and we have been there twice already this season. It’s wonderful to sit close to the Tre Archi. This is the triple arched gateway, built of local brick, at the entrance to the old Medieval town centre. They have recently been restored for only the second time since they were built about 500 years ago.  At night they are lit up, in green, white and red, the colours of the Italian flag. I always feel a sense of history, imagining the many people entering our town throughout the ages, travellers, monks, nuns, aristocrats, peasants, tax collectors…ooh I think I’ll stop there.

My Sausage Rolls
My Sausage Rolls

Last weekend in Petritoli we enjoyed the International Supper. All the stranieri (foreigners) living here make a plate of food typical of their country and take it to be offered as part of the buffet. I had intended to make Toad in the Hole but decided the batter would be soggy before it could be eaten so I made Sausage Rolls. Not very adventurous I know but in previous years I have made, Shepherd’s Pie, and a Victoria Sponge, so had to think of something different. Of course I stupidly put on Facebook that I was doing Toad in the Hole, consequently there were some disappointed faces and questions but as they didn’t have a clue what Toad in the Hole was, Rospo nel Buco is the literal Google translation but goodness knows what the Italians would have made of that,. Anyone know the derivation of Toad in the Hole?

other food Romanian

Italian Salami
Italian Salami

This town is not very big, about 2000 people in Petritoli and the small towns of Valmir and Moregnano belonging to the same parish,  but 10% of those living here are foreigners and that 10% come from over twenty different countries. The food was brilliant, I always like the Mexican and the Albanian food. The Italians are not very gastronomically adventurous but those who attended the evening enjoyed it immensely and there were shouts of ‘complimenti’ all round. Having said that, the Italian friends we sat with ate the Italian food that they brought with them!

It was a successful evening with entertainment and of course a raffle with some great prizes, I won a jar of olives and a bottle of wine, not quite what I had my eye on but nevertheless a win is a win. Someone else won the dinner at Re Squarchio….(damn them).

My Raffle Prize
My Raffle Prize

Out on our deck in the town we can eat breakfast, lunch and dinner in the sun or shade. The view is stunning and I will never tire of the scene, beautiful Marche countryside rolling down to the sea, with Medieval hilltop towns dotted here and there. Lucky us.

viewAll three bars in Petritoli also have their tables out now. By the photos you would think they weren’t busy but that’s down to the time they were taken. At 6.30pm most evenings everyone is out taking a stroll (passeggiata), stopping for drinks and nibbles (aperitivi) or ice cream, (gelato) Chatting and passing the time of day with each other. It’s a wonderful way of life.

Tre Archi Bar
Tre Archi Bar
Fanny Bar
Fanny Bar
Crist'El Bar
Crist’El Bar

Festa De Le Cove… harvest festival Italian style…

oxen
Oxen – Photograph courtesy of Giancarlo Fabiani

There are an inordinate number of festas (street parties/festivals) and sagras (usually to do with eating) happening all over Italy for most of the summer months. Wherever you go there will be people eating, dancing and drinking in small towns and villages all of them offering something traditional and steeped in history. In Petritoli we have several of these and the biggest is the Festa De Le Cove. It’s a harvest festival celebration of sorts. A whole weekend of fun.

Posh Mum and Dad
Posh Mum and Dad
Posh Daughter
Posh Daughter

The basic idea is that the people from the surrounding countryside, the ‘contadini’ (peasant farmers) come into the centre of town with offerings of grain for the ‘aristocracy’ the corn is blessed by the priest, the rich people leave the town giving the farmers the run of the place for the weekend. They have a ball, dancing, eating and drinking. Until they have to leave on the Sunday evening. I may not have got this exactly right but I’m sure someone out there will correct me if I’m widely missing the point. Today it’s symbolic the people don’t actually leave town – everyone joins in the festivities.

Contadini Family
Contadini Family

The festival culminates with a procession of floats which have the most amazing sculptures made from straw and corn. This year the procession was led by a magnificent pair of oxen pulling a cart full of sheaves of straw. (Cove is the word for sheaves.) Other floats included a scythe, a ladybird (lucky symbol here), a 10 lira coin and a model of the wonderful Petritoli Tower. There was also an old threshing machine on show, many stands selling local crafts. Here you can see a video of the procession and dancing. I hope the quality is okay…it took me about 4 hours to put it together and it’s my first attempt so don’t expect too much!

Food stands sold, pizzette (deep fried pizza base I think), roast goose, pasta, polenta, bruschetta and much more. Oh and plenty of wine of course!

A side street in the town
A side street in the town

The town is beautifully decorated and each year there’s a different theme, this year it was poppies and sunflowers. At the roundabouts and road junctions they put life size dummies made of straw – I love them!

man with fork Mr and Mrs

These two look like they've had a row!
These two look like they’ve had a row!

Everyone can dance the traditional Saltarello, they dance behind the floats, they dance in the square, the children and teenagers perform on the stage it’s a lively dance and it’s great fun but they never, never change the music! it’s the same from around 10am in the morning until they finally close down after midnight. By the end you cannot get the song out of your head and it inhibits sleep and stays with you for days! The vocals are interesting, if you can understand them! They make the words up as they go along. Often the lyrics are risqué, sung in the local dialect and directed to passers by and people sitting at tables. A couple of years ago I was the victim of the song and my Italian ‘friends’ fell about laughing, raising their eyebrows and thoroughly enjoying the joke of which I was obviously the centre but sadly, or perhaps gladly, I couldn’t understand one word.

ladybird
Ladybird – Photograph courtesy of Giancarlo Fabiani
scythe
Scythe – Photograph courtesy of Giancarlo Fabiani
bell tower
Petritoli Bell Tower – Photograph courtesy of Giancarlo Fabiani

Thank you Giancarlo Fabiani for some of the photographs this week. Giancarlo has an old printing press in the centre of Petritoli, it’s been in his family for many generations. I may blog about it one day as it’s very interesting.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading this week’s blog and looking at the photos and video. I’m going to take a well earned rest in the afternoon sun. 🙂

Hammocks of Fun in the Evening Sun…

Jpeg (the dog) and Me Chillin...
Jpeg (the dog)chillin – and Me trying to relax in the mended hammock …

Yesterday evening, I climbed into my hammock with my Ipad hoping to read at least five short stories. To my horror, the damn thing collapsed and I fell crashing to the ground, unhurt but a little shaken. (my derriere obviously has plenty of padding!) I felt really stupid, even though it clearly wasn’t my fault but I’m sure if anyone had seen me it would have been like watching a clip from ‘You’ve Been Framed.’ It’s possible that it happened because of the large amount of food I had consumed for my Sunday lunch (a great curry cooked by great friends). My husband assured me that it was the rope that anchored the hammock to the tree that was worn through and nothing to do with my extra pounds. If he knew why hadn’t he fixed it? Is he trying to suggest a plot for a story? hmmmm It’s one of those things that I always thought would happen to someone as they rested in the hammock but hoped it wouldn’t be me! I was coaxed back into it after my husband had fixed it but I’m nervous now!

Empty Hammock...safer from a distance.
Empty Hammock…safer from a distance.

I have been reading a great deal. Short stories, novels, magazines, online stuff. I have learnt during my first year of serious writing that if you want to be a good writer then reading is what you must do. Read everything, even genres you wouldn’t normally be interested in because it all helps to expand your knowledge and inspire your imagination.

Later this week I am going to take part in a writing course in Tuscany at Art Umbria it’s a week long course but I’m just joining for one day. I am really looking forward to it and hope it inspires me to keep going. The course is with Sue Moorcroft. I think it will be splendid!

I love going over to Tuscany as we visit our friends Linda and Alan, who live close to Cortona, a beautiful town and famous of course for ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ written by Frances Mayes.

Right now, at this minute, I need to plant 20 lettuce that I bought the other day or they will die. After that  I can get back to reading in the hammock – on second thoughts perhaps I’ll stick to a sun bed.

gardenandhouse

Footnote:
‘The Man’ AKA my husband has been working very hard to get the garden and olive groves looking good for the summer. Last year he built a dry brick wall which is maturing well. However, I think over the next 3 weeks coverage of the Tour de France is taking priority…

Dry Brick Wall -  built by The Man. Didn't he do Well?
Dry Brick Wall – built by The Man. Didn’t he do Well?